Work Related Brief

Our next project involved making a costume for a client, our client being, The Dorman Museum, in Middlesbrough. As the centenary of The Great War (WW1), was approaching, we were asked to produce replica costume's of those worn by the people of the time. The costume's to be made were chosen by the client, but it was the tutor's that made the decision of the costume given to each student, some of the choice's included; a Tommy, a Sailor, a Suffragette etc. I was given the costume of the Nurse.

I was really pleased with what I'd been given, but it wasn't going to be as straight forward as I had thought.
I soon realised in my early research, that there was in fact lots of different types of Nurse's during the war, each with their own unique costume. I have not included them all as it would take far too long.

The British Red Cross Uniform (Voluntary Aid Detachment - V.A.D)

A colourful view of the V.A.D costume.

Q.A.I.M.N uniform 1901

A Queen Alexandra Nurse

It was decided that it was the British Red Cross Uniform that was wanted for the exhibition. I found researching the actual uniform really quite difficult as nothing much was really ever written about the uniform of the Women during WW1. (Although since the mark of the centenary, many more books have appeared). I had to rely on many websites, some of which I was really grateful for finding, as the writer's of those sites really knew their stuff.

The VAD costume changed during the course of the war, so I decided to make the costume from the start of the war in keeping with the centenary, marking the start.

I was going for a look very much like above, with the blue pinafore dress, white apron with a red cross. Two sleeve protectors, arm band with red cross to be worn on the left arm and the stiff collar. The veil was a later style based on the Q.A.I.M.N headdress, so I went with the Sister Dora style cap without neck ties. (As seen in the first image).

The dress is not sky blue like depicted in many films, TV shows etc. It is actually a grey/blue in a fabric that by today's standards would be classed as a drill or chambray. It has to be made of sturdy fabric for heavy duty work-wear. In fact it is very much like an overall but gathered at the waist.

This is an Nurse's uniform from WW1, which can be found at the Dorman Museum, Middlesbrough. As I was able to get up close and examine this costume I used this for inspiration, although I believe the woman that wore this uniform originally was perhaps already a local nurse as it is not in keeping with a traditional V.A.D costume, although many volunteers made their own due to fabric shortages. The dress is roughly ankle length, with two horizontal tucks that run around the hem for decoration.

The dress opens in front, as we can see here. A placket is inserted which is fastened by buttons. This opening runs from the collar to about knee level.

Here we can see the fastening up close. The buttons are very typical of the Edwardian period. They are fabric covered with a double eyelet.

The apron is made of a heavy linen, this style is very typical of the Red Cross, although it was common place during the war for the volunteers not to have them on their aprons due to shortages of dyes.

Here we can see how the straps cross over at the back and run under the epaulet's of the shoulders. This picture also shows that lap and fell seams have been used to join the fabric together because they are a strong seam and can take the strain of work-wear.

The underneath collar is of the small stand up variety. The attached collar seen here is more typical of the uniform during the later stages of the war. I noticed how gathered the dress is around the neckline. This is because the top half of the dress is rather baggy and it is attached to a fitted 'A' line skirt.

This is the collar that I made, it is a stiff stand up collar that is attached at the front and back by way of studs. Some of these were made in celluloid or rubber but the majority were made of starched linen. Which is how I tried to make it, but I guess today's starch is not made of the same stern stuff and it just didn't work. I then tried a mixture of P.V.A glue with water and this seemed to work very well.

These are the type of studs used.

This is an original arm band, made in a linen with a red felt cross stitched into place. I made mine the same way but I appliqued the red cross in position.

Opened out head cap

This is what the cap looks like when the buttons are brought to the button holes and the peak folded back.

Here is my dress. It is a very baggy top half attached to a fitted skirt. The sleeves are made in two parts. A placket is attached over the opening so that the button fastening is not seen. I used a cotton drill fabric, it was a little too blue for my liking but a near enough match.

This is a close up of the hem of the skirt, the two horizontal tucks can be seen.

My friend Lauren is modelling, my almost finished outfit. The apron still needs the red cross, but the sleeve protectors are made. I fastened them with a button on the cuffs but the tops are tightened by a lace.

My sister Michelle is modelling the final costume. This was on display at the Dorman Museum, Middlesbrough  but I believe this exhibition is now closed. Therefore I should be expecting this costume back any day soon.

Tailoring

Whilst working on our Millinery project in one class, we also had to make a tailored jacket in another. In the past previous students had to learn the bespoke handiwork techniques used by Saville Row artisans, but it proved to be very time consuming which unfortunately led to the project's not being finished on time. So therefore our tutor's decided, we should learn these techniques in our summer break on a jacket size that would fit a toddler. And the technique we would be using for our project, would be the 'fusible' technique. Interfacing and machine stitched being the key components.

The hardest part being which jacket to chose.

I considered making this 'Grace Farrell' suit to compliment the hat I was making, but I wasn't overly keen on the loose fitting. (Photo taken from a screen shot).

I really loved many of the fitted jackets worn by Nicole Kidman in the film 'Australia'. This riding jacket is stunning but decided against it because I fancied making something more colourful. (Photo taken from a Google search).

After researching several more other films and all the other possibilities of jackets to make, I decided that I quite liked the power dressing of Margaret Thatcher and looked at the film 'The Iron Lady' for inspiration. (Photo taken from a Google search).

I chose to replicate this jacket because I loved the colour and style. It also helped that my Mother would make the perfect model.

Thankfully I was able to find many images on the Internet taken from the Hollywood costume exhibition that had taken place at the V&A Museum, which helped me research the full details of the costume.

Firstly, I made my own pattern based on my Mother's measurements. I decided the jacket had a princess seam up the front and back, but there was also a dart in the front panels on either side. The collar was pretty deep, in a 70's style. Both of the sleeves and back panel had a vent. Once I was happy with my pattern I made the toile in a medium weight calico.

Next I wanted to create so samples of the best way to tackle the breast pocket. I decided to carry out the experiments in the actual fabric I was going to use, so that I could test how well it would work. I thought just stitching a fake pocket flap on looked really bulky and unprofessional. Therefore I decided to make a welt pocket.

It was now a case of making the real thing. Here we can see that I have cut the fusible interfacing the same size as the pattern, so that it won't cause bulk in the seams. Then I stitched it together.

I put the welt pockets in place and stitched the flaps in place. It was quite difficult to make sure I had these pockets in the same place. Now it meant I could continue putting the rest of the jacket together.

Sleeves in, front facing in and finally the lining. I even found time to make a matching 'A'Line skirt and a hat.

My Mother had real fun modelling this costume, although she was in the process of dieting and the costume was obviously becoming to big. In the end I ended up taking it in and altering the collar to make it smaller as I wasn't quite happy with it. I also added the buttons to the sleeve vents. 

(All images not from a specified source are of my own work).

Millinery

This second year has kept us all really busy, so I'm just trying to fill you in on what's been happening. We we're given a Millinery Project earlier this year, in which we had to make 4 - 6 hats based on a theme of our choosing. I chose: 

CHILDREN'S MOVIE'S

I

After a great deal of searching and decision making I finally narrowed it down 5 hats.

'Lily St Regis' from the Movie 'Annie'

'Grace Farrell' from the 1982 film 'Annie'

'Truly Scrumptious' from the movie 'Chitty Chitty Bang Bang'

Another 'Truly Scrumptious' hat, that I refer to as the 'Toot Sweet Hat'

A children's wedding bonnet from the film 'Nanny MacPhee'

I began with the flowery Truly Scrumptious hat,

I used buckram as the base and moulded it over the block.

I covered the crown in white silk also, but it was quite tricky getting those creases out.

I used a satin bias binding around the edge, hiding the millinery wire and cut the hole out of the centre to allow for the crown to rest.

I placed petersham into the band and attached the crown, I then stitched two side veils of chiffon at either side.

I made my own silk roses, of different shade of pink, but I also added silk paint to each individual petal to add shade, I then added the leaves. (This is the underneath view).

The finished hat, it was probably the most time consuming hat, as I made all of the flowers myself.

The next hat, the 'Grace Farrell', from the 1982 movie 'Annie'. I began with a pale blue wool hood.

I had to stitch three pleats into the front of the hood before I could begin blocking the hat. Thank goodness for
the industrial sewing machines at college because my domestic wouldn't have coped with the thickness of this

wool.

A cloche style block was needed to make this hat, I soaked the hat in boiling water and blocked it the same way as the other's. This job required some muscles, it was kind of like stretching out a woolly jumper that has shrunk in the wash! Friction burnt hands ahoy!!

All it needed was a petersham ribbon on the inside and a satin ribbon on the outside, oh and the edge hemmed up by hand!

The 'Lily St Regis' Pillbox hat was next, I started off with a parissal cone hood and blocked it in the same way I had with the other's.

Once off the block, I hand stitched the millinery wire into the hem and folded the hem over it. I placed a lining inside and stab stitched it in place, I then used a bias binding to finish/hide the turned under hem.

I then made a thick pink check ribbon by stitching several thin ones together and attached some purple veiling on top of that, for the finishing touches.

The college didn't have a block for a bonnet, so for my 'Nanny MacPhee Wedding Bonnet', I made it completely from buckram, cutting out piece's and stitching them together.

I did this for the peak, covered the parts in ice wool and stitched the pieces together. The outside I covered in white satin and the inside in a lovely cerise satin.

I made a long neck tie, one side lime green and the other cerise and attached it. I also made my own bias binding for the edging. All the other trimmings are shop bought.

The 'Toot Sweet Hat'. I made a buckram base cap, but the rest of this hat was made of organza and ric-rac. I began cutting out two full circle's of organza and made one smaller. I hemmed up the outer edge and attached white ric-rac around this edge.

I gathered the inner circle and pulled it in tightly than attached it to the base cap.

Using wired organza ribbon, that I edged in ric-rac, I looped them around and stitched it into a bow.

All I had to do was stitch the lower flounce to the bow and there was the finished hat.

I loved the Millinery project, but it involved a lot of hand sewing, my hands were red raw and covered in pin pricks by the end of it. So be warned.....