Tailoring

Whilst working on our Millinery project in one class, we also had to make a tailored jacket in another. In the past previous students had to learn the bespoke handiwork techniques used by Saville Row artisans, but it proved to be very time consuming which unfortunately led to the project's not being finished on time. So therefore our tutor's decided, we should learn these techniques in our summer break on a jacket size that would fit a toddler. And the technique we would be using for our project, would be the 'fusible' technique. Interfacing and machine stitched being the key components.

The hardest part being which jacket to chose.

I considered making this 'Grace Farrell' suit to compliment the hat I was making, but I wasn't overly keen on the loose fitting. (Photo taken from a screen shot).

I really loved many of the fitted jackets worn by Nicole Kidman in the film 'Australia'. This riding jacket is stunning but decided against it because I fancied making something more colourful. (Photo taken from a Google search).

After researching several more other films and all the other possibilities of jackets to make, I decided that I quite liked the power dressing of Margaret Thatcher and looked at the film 'The Iron Lady' for inspiration. (Photo taken from a Google search).

I chose to replicate this jacket because I loved the colour and style. It also helped that my Mother would make the perfect model.

Thankfully I was able to find many images on the Internet taken from the Hollywood costume exhibition that had taken place at the V&A Museum, which helped me research the full details of the costume.

Firstly, I made my own pattern based on my Mother's measurements. I decided the jacket had a princess seam up the front and back, but there was also a dart in the front panels on either side. The collar was pretty deep, in a 70's style. Both of the sleeves and back panel had a vent. Once I was happy with my pattern I made the toile in a medium weight calico.

Next I wanted to create so samples of the best way to tackle the breast pocket. I decided to carry out the experiments in the actual fabric I was going to use, so that I could test how well it would work. I thought just stitching a fake pocket flap on looked really bulky and unprofessional. Therefore I decided to make a welt pocket.

It was now a case of making the real thing. Here we can see that I have cut the fusible interfacing the same size as the pattern, so that it won't cause bulk in the seams. Then I stitched it together.

I put the welt pockets in place and stitched the flaps in place. It was quite difficult to make sure I had these pockets in the same place. Now it meant I could continue putting the rest of the jacket together.

Sleeves in, front facing in and finally the lining. I even found time to make a matching 'A'Line skirt and a hat.

My Mother had real fun modelling this costume, although she was in the process of dieting and the costume was obviously becoming to big. In the end I ended up taking it in and altering the collar to make it smaller as I wasn't quite happy with it. I also added the buttons to the sleeve vents. 

(All images not from a specified source are of my own work).